Posts by pcforce

Particullary for the subwoofer, i concider using it both in home and in car (for vacations). Power is important to me because i dont want to have lack of power which usually happens at verry low frequencies. As for the MDF, well its often used to make furniture - this one is the same it just dont have the shiny plastic cover creating the illusion of big piece of wood. I think there will be needed one pre-amplifier (EQ) to split the signal. My plan is to split it in two - one part of the signal will go to 2x120W amplifier and following speakers. Those will be for the stereo and the amplifier or pre-amp will cut-off frequencies bellow 150Hz. The other signal coming from the pre-amplifier will go to 2 channel (in bridge mode) or 1 channel amplifier with power around 600W plus high frequencies cut-off filter to remove all frequencies above 150Hz. Most expensive thing of all might be the pre-amplifier itself, so far i havent seen a cheap one that would do the work ...

First part seems to be damaged so i'll start seperate topic for Part 2 of the project.

Many of you probably thought that this project has failed. Actually the truth is the project is running but slowly due to lack of time and money ^^. This time something special for you than just drawings and theory

I just place them standing still with no screws (which i havent choosed yet anyway). Material is 22mm MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard), overall structure weight so far is about 10kg.

Another change in the project is the speaker itself. I decided to go for a much better one - Pioneer TS-W101SPL member of Pioneers professional drives (SPL class - Sound Preasure Level); 600W RMS; 18-2500Hz

Its for pure fun. Sorry its not in verry good quality and sound cause i had to apply additional filters to improve visibility and make it more interesting

DOWNLOAD

laser

street lamp

car

I just looked to the guide

May I suggest something for "Windows Vista" part:

- keep your windows up to date
- keep your video drivers up to date

Vista is verry sensitive for both; thats how i solve my problems before ...

Looks good.

I agree with Arvedui

in case you have XP and 1GB or more i would go for disabled virtual memory (afterall you're not running Vista nor Freelancer is like soem of the new games which are capable of taking 1GB+ of RAM)

I doubd about you gonna get specific answer for both of your questions.

Few threads below OP mentioned

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right now im more interested into the SL sol war project so CF is on hold until the development of Sol war is making good progress

I have 8 channel surround system and verry good sound card but thats not what i have in mind. I belive you can build something on your own to use in the other rooms or places as i said something flexible at a good price and good quality. And you know whats the feeling when you made it on your own.

So lets continue ...

Part II

There are in common two types of speakers when its about cars - 3.1) for enclosure use; 3.2) for free air use. There is nothing special about free air type of speakers - you just need to mount it on wooden (MDF) plate. Things are way more complex when its about creating a speaker box for enclosure speaker type. Usually speaker manual contains several common schemes like box with vent/port or box without vent/port and some dimentiones. This is also a matter of space you can spare (means in your car or to be comfortable to transport or place the box in your room). However if you're enthusiast you can take this even further - design your own speaker box. To do that you gonna need three things - your specific speaker parameters, program to simulate the overall sound effect (box + speaker) and good idea is to get a program for 3D design so you can see how it really gonna look and prevent later technical problems when you reach the assembling.

First you need to start with the internal size of the box to provide atleast the recommended space for proper operation of the speaker. For our particular speaker recommended space is 22,6 liters for sealed enclosure box (no vents) and 31,1 liters for box with vents. If the size is below those values, speaker will be limited in reproducing some of the frequencies. If size is over those values an over excurse may occure which means, if you dont make your simulation to look properly with this box size you may blow up your speaker at sertain frequencies and imput power. So you need your speaker's specific technical specifications. I'll talk about that a bit later. Lets spend some time to design the speaker box. Bellow you can see design made in Solid Works - it really dont matter what program you use aslong you can see how the whole box will look.

Keep in mind that you gonna change the look all the time untill you find what fits best sound/physical dimentions. What to expect from your speaker box with certain dimentiones and speaker combination will tell you your simulation which we gonna do with other program. Box you see above has following specifications:

Wide: 360mm
Height: 550mm
Deep: 400mm
Walls thickness: 20mm
Wall isolation: 10mm
External size: 79.2L
Internal space without isolation: 58.75L
Internal space with isolation: 49.98L
Material: wood (cedar)

As you see this is pure subwoofer with only one speaker, one vent port, and hole for terminal at the back and size exceeding nearly twice the size that is originally recommended. This brings its pluses and minuses which we will see at the simulation later.

to be continue ...

Part I

Point is to design and build personal audio system to match your needs. Also my goal is to be flexible which means you will be able to take any of the components and use it elsewhere.

Evry sound system can be devided to several common blocks - 1) source of signal; 2) amplifier/equilizer; 3) speakers. I gonna start from the "tail to the head" which means - 3) speakers.

Because the whole system need to be flexible i decided to look at some parts target at car audio. In this way of thought i choosed a car type subwoofer speaker. Its not important does its a car speaker or just a standart one that you can find on the net aslong as the sensitivity and diameter of the speaker are high. Small drives, especially for low frequencies is just no good. Bigger is better. There is something else which you wont find on a standart speaker and this is the Dual Voice Coil. Evry speaker use one voice coil with fixed resistance (usually 4 or 8 ohm). Dual Voice Coil (DVC) speakers have two coils usually 2 or 4 ohm resistance each and four wires instead of two. Both coils need to be connected before speaker to be used. The advantage of DVC comes allowing you to connect both coils in different configuration to take the maximum of your amplifier. Lets take for example Pioneer TS-W256DVC. This drive match our requirements - 87dB sensitivity, 25cm diameter, 350W RMS, DVC with two 4 ohm coils and perfect frequency response for a subwoofer all this at good cost - 60 euros. Now depend on how you connect the coils (usually you get this into the user manual) you can 1x 8 ohm, 2x 4 ohm or 1x 2 ohm.

to be continue ...

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in first seconds after uncloackign while energy is restoring missiles/torps can be used cause they use nearly none energy to fire a misle/torp

If i can share my idea of the cloak device:

1) about the two points that OP listed above i think point 2 is the better choice to do

2) the way i see it cloack should be a device that is to buy and mount and when activated it will start draw energy untill the ship runs out of energy. In this order of thoughtscapital ships and big trader ships which use better power generators will be able to cloack longer. In the same time would be good if anti-cloack wepon is created as example could be a EMP mine wide explosion range which would be able to draw shields and ship power after that so as result, cloacked ship will show up.

3) if special fuel will be needed to cloack then i suggest to be sold evrywhere, not like coalition torpedos which are used rare cause they are not easy to find near the battlefield.

I dont see why is all that needed (things to be slowly shutted down).

From the time i stopped playing, what i hear is, there are many new players, server is quite busy now, all clans prosper.

What i personally see is increased interest from new players to join clans - like example DC clan page been visited by more and more ppl and i'm sure other clans experiance the same.

Buda

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Originally posted by DC_Hägar
doctors

people

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Originally posted by Exielr
I dont think I stated my previous question correctly......I cant play online YET. I have a 128k wireless connection.

Plz I love this mod with a passion and will only join in three months time.....getting a new 4 megabit connection

So in all. I cant join clans Yet. Soz about that.
And when im online ill be creating my own clan and system

"faster" or "bigger" dont mean to be better - i played better with my old 32KB/s connection than current 180KB/s international speeds

Dragon Corp Command Staff yesterday decided DC_pcforce (me) to leave Command Staff and set status to Veteran. My functions from now on will be more like "advising". I will no longer participate in ASF - CSF fights/training and remove my licences. I'll spend less time playing online. I'll be around in the forums. Concider it as big break and we gonna see each other again sooner or later.

I spend almost two years on CF and same amont of time in DC. I had a lot good moments, some bad aswell. Learned alot from CF too. Community is great, one of a kind. I have to admit i prefer the old times more than now but things always will keep changing one way or another.

Thank you all for the good time i spend with you.