Building custom and flexible audio system || Part 2

There are 13 replies in this Thread. The last Post () by pcforce.

  • First part seems to be damaged so i'll start seperate topic for Part 2 of the project.



    Many of you probably thought that this project has failed. Actually the truth is the project is running but slowly due to lack of time and money ^^. This time something special for you than just drawings and theory :D






    I just place them standing still with no screws (which i havent choosed yet anyway). Material is 22mm MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard), overall structure weight so far is about 10kg.



    Another change in the project is the speaker itself. I decided to go for a much better one - Pioneer TS-W101SPL member of Pioneers professional drives (SPL class - Sound Preasure Level); 600W RMS; 18-2500Hz


  • no:1
    that isnt MDF that is pictured m8, its common chipboard. is this the actual picture of what you are building? if so throw it away and start again with decent material. go one better and use 12mm or 15mm marine grade birch ply. and use deadwieght in the enclosures, sand is good enough. and pack them with nylon fibre - it fools the speaker into reacting as it would in a larger enclosure...far better acoustic range.


    no:2
    if this is a home/cinema audio system why are you using car audio subwoofers? the tsw 10spl is a high excusrion car audio subwoofer. SPL = sound pressure level series subs. high volume monotone boomy sound. it needs a minimum 1.2 cubic foot sealed enclosure, but its designed for a totally different listening environment, and for a different purpose.


    if you are building a car audio system on a budget then use a single JL Audio 10W3 in a 1.3 cubic foot sealed enclosure, with infinity kappa 6.1 perfect front end, use a denon dca 600 with onboard active crossovers for a totally active setup. dont bother using speakers in the rear, it ruins the sounstage and you get too many phase differences. do-able for around £450.00 sterling.


    for a home audio setup use a factory built active sub like a ruark or a yamaha tsw 180 (budget in mind), kef cresta front end and centre channel and kef 60s rears, using a basic 5.1 surround amp. great sounds and can be done for relatively little money, check out ebay.


    i could chat for hours about this subject m8, ill be happy to help no matter what you decide to use. but KEF rules in home audio on a medium budget imo. car audio is a bit more complex but ill help where i can. btw i used to custom design and build subwoofer enclosures for car audio. and the walls where 44 mm thick sandwitched with sound deadening;)


    one last point m8, power handling of the speakers lends nothing to its sound quality. a 50 watt speaker can sound a hundred times better than a 500 watt speaker.

  • Particullary for the subwoofer, i concider using it both in home and in car (for vacations). Power is important to me because i dont want to have lack of power which usually happens at verry low frequencies. As for the MDF, well its often used to make furniture - this one is the same it just dont have the shiny plastic cover creating the illusion of big piece of wood. I think there will be needed one pre-amplifier (EQ) to split the signal. My plan is to split it in two - one part of the signal will go to 2x120W amplifier and following speakers. Those will be for the stereo and the amplifier or pre-amp will cut-off frequencies bellow 150Hz. The other signal coming from the pre-amplifier will go to 2 channel (in bridge mode) or 1 channel amplifier with power around 600W plus high frequencies cut-off filter to remove all frequencies above 150Hz. Most expensive thing of all might be the pre-amplifier itself, so far i havent seen a cheap one that would do the work ...

  • mate, you are confisuing MDF with chipboard, MDF is not wood, it's highly pressed paper, wich means it has more density and more structural resistence.


    you could also try to use OSB wich can look a bit weaker but it isn't cause it' all made of wood waste with epoxi resin.

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  • I couldnt agree more with Dop Chip Board is a bad way of building any box you will get way to much vibrations from the Chip Board design (Basically Scrap it) MDF or any of the othere materials already mentioned will do............if your are kitting out your car i recommend JBL all the way Mid/Bass with seperate tweeters either JBL or Kicker sub and a nice set of JBL 6/9 in rear all run from JBL amps garanteed to kick ass......but as for home speakers i would seriously consider Bose, KEF, Celestion for sub and surround speakers you will only get good true sound form car speakers in your car and same works with home speakers they anly belong in the home due to impedance differences.

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  • Quote


    Medium-density fiberboard (MDF or MDFB) is an engineered wood product formed by breaking down softwood into wood fibers, often in a defibrator, combining it with wax and resin, and forming panels by applying high temperature and pressure. It is a building material similar in application to plywood but made up of separated fibers, not wood veneers. It is denser than normal particle board.




  • due to financial reasons i decided to go for something different - neither the first drive i show you - TS-W256DVC, neither the one after - TS-W101SPL but something in the middle and as a plus - it will be 12" drive



    [url=http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069927_376262748_tab=B,00.html?compName=PNA_V3_ProductDetailsComponent]Pioneer TS-W307D4[/url]


    I still stick to DVC (Dual voice coil) drive. In addition i also purchased the grill for this model. It gonna look like that



    [url=http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/image/popup/0,,2076_414827940_415128386,00.html ]Gallery[/url]

  • I came up with idea to put same type of light like in my PC case inside the subwoofer - green cold cathod light, placed in such a way so in-directional light will come out from the bass reflecs tube.

  • This is part of the cherry. I keep working on it :D






    The last one shows the 4 silver connectors (2 per Voice Coil) Notice the Creative subwoofer in the background behind the speaker (looks small despite the 6.5" drive)

  • I cutted the speaker hole already, professional reflex tube (80mm diameter, 225mm long dual flared ports) is here too. I need to cut hole for it and rear terminal which i havent bought yet. Also i need about 2m good cables only for inside of the sub.

  • I havent wrote anything nearly two weeks and i think its time to reveal more new info.


    I have put some hard work last few days and subwoofer is verry close to complition. There will be used 28 wooden screws completely hidden (particially in one wall, particially in another wall of the box) + 9 of the bottom of the box where simple screws for wood will be used (a metal ones) with the idea to be able to remove the bottom if nesseccery in future, 8 holes for speaker screws, 4 - for speaker terminal at the back. Talking about the terminal, its from Visaton (a german company) with gold plated connectors and bridges (it includes two external bridges to change speaker's coils mode). In total there are over 60 holes been positioned and drilled for this purpose. I already bought the silicone which is going to be used for isolation of the internal edges. Sound isolation and half of the wooden screws will be available soon aswell. Paint is already here - black glance. I'm also preparing small exotic logo made from metal as a batch to place infront of the subwoofer thanks to a laser cutting machine.




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